Jerky for Dessert

A Chinatown eating tour...

Last week to commemorate the Lunar New Year, I prepared a pot of Braised Chinese Short Ribs that changed my life. I have never been very well versed in Asian cuisine. I'm familiar with and enjoy the flavors, but being such a minimalist I've always leaned towards food with less ingredients. Despite this, I've been eager lately to dabble a bit more in this area. I found a recipe from a trusted source, which involved cuts of beef slowly braised in a broth flavored with sherry, orange and ginger. I was convinced this would be a winner. Preceeded by a romaine salad with Meyer lemon vinaigrette, grapefruit and watermelon radishes, it was!
Save this recipe for when you have plenty of time. You can't rush these flavors. The meat takes a full 2 1/2 hours to become completely tender, but it's well worth it. The resulting broth is practically drinkable, making even I (who made the dish from start to finish) wonder WHAT mysterious ingredient is in this that makes it SO GOOD!?
The answer is quality ingredients, proper technique, plenty of time, and lots of love.
Follow the recipe and you can't go wrong.

Foodie-kind
Last week after a day of running errands in the city, I unpacked my gear to find a hunk of aged Laguiole raw milk cheese in my gym shoe (relax, it was wrapped in plastic). Desperate for more room in my bag, I remembered putting it there earlier that day during a snack run at Whole Foods. This was the same day I emptied my jacket pocket and unexpectedly found a napkin wrapped around a fantastic oatmeal cookie with dried cranberries and pecans. It was a last minute purchase at the Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory (2 Old Fulton St), where I have an ice cream loyalty. I don't know why my pocket seemed like the best place for a cookie, or my shoe a good place for cheese, or why when sampling spicy cucumber pickles on the Lower East Side I asked for a napkin and the Pickle Guy offered me his sleeve. Besides not being a germophobe when it comes to eating, it's times like this when I realized what being a serious foodie is all about. It's a commitment, an obsession, even a compulsion. Sometimes the best medicine for people afflicted with foodie-ism is for us to hang out with our own kind.

Which is why I was delighted to spend the afternoon with a foodie friend from Hong Kong, eating our way around Chinatown. I have a love affair with noodles, and he told me about a place that makes fresh, hand pulled wheat noodles every day. Food Shing Restaurant (2 East Broadway) is a generic looking spot I never would have noticed from the street. I asked my friend to order his favorite things, and within a few minutes two steaming hot bowls of noodle soup appeared before us. The slices of slowly cooked beef tendon were much more flavorful and pleasant in texture than I thought they would be, surrounded by the most perfectly toothsome noodles and magnificent beefy broth with hints of ginger and star anise.
Slurping a bowl of noodles doesn't take long, so we were quickly on to our next stop. But not before devouring a perfectly sweet ginger doughnut that I picked up on the way over from my beloved Doughnut Plant (see past newsletter, Food Nostalgia archived on my blog). Mark Isreal's coconut filled doughnut is possibly the most euphoria-inducing food item I've had in my life, but I digress.
On the way to our next stop we peeked in the windows of another favorite Chinatown food spot (Yummy Noodles) , and one of the oldest dim sum and tea houses in the city. In the shadow on the Confucious building, 9 Chatham Square Restaurant is a favorite of the elderly Chinese set. A popular and bustling lunch spot serving Hong Kong style fare, including a beverage made of half coffee/half black tea called Yin Yuan tea.
Try Yummy Noodles (46 Bowery) for their famous claypot rice casserole topped with Chinese sausage, succulent roast duck and "bbq" meats, or a variety of congees (savory rice porrige).

For dessert!
Discovering K.L. Malaysia Beef Jerky Inc. (95A Elizabeth St.) was the foodie highlight of my week. A little tiny place with not much more than a heat lamp and piles of delicious meat treats. This is not the jerky you are thinking of, the oversalted and impossibly tough strips your uncle decided to make after a deer hunting trip once.
Malaysia Jerky has several varieties, all made in small square 1/4 inch thick sheets, with a texture closer to soft fruit leather or thinly sliced spam. If you are one of those people who can admit that spam is actually really tasty (becuase it IS), Malaysia Jerky is for you. The warm, spicy, sweet and slightly smoky pork jerky is cooked over charcoal and just fatty enough to be absolutely mouthwatering. I ate the rest of my purchase the day after, cold, right out of the refrigator and savored every bite.
After sampling even more Hong Kong style street food from a cart at Grand and Bowery (glutinous rice rolls with sweet sticky soy sauce and dry shrimp), I concluded my lunch hour tour, totally stuffed and grateful to live in such a diverse and wonderful city.

Cooking lessons
Whether you want to eat out less, entertain more, learn how to prepare healthy snacks, or just brush up on your efficiency in the kitchen.. a private cooking lesson is a great idea. Choose your own menu, learn to shop for the best ingredients and get professional tips to help make cooking more fun and less daunting!

Rates for private cooking lessons start at $175.

Unfussy Food can help you identify and reach your food goals, whether you need a food coach or a personal chef. Check out our custom services page for more rates and info.


Eat well and be well this holiday weekend!

-Holly

************

FALL in love.. with food!

originally published November 28th, 2007

That's right. It's still fall. The first day of winter is more than three weeks away. The autumn leaves are just past their peak and we're not even close to being tired of apples yet!
Are we?
Though my head is spinning with holiday party plans, I relish this season and what it brings. After a very active and adventurous summer, I'm thoroughly enjoying my days and nights indoors. Animals and plants hibernate during the winter with good reason. The cold seasons are a time to restore, reflect and rejuvenate. It's an opportunity to slow down and nourish yourself. Even at the end of a very busy day, I find cooking to be great therapy and stress relief. There's something so simple and comforting about warming the house and filling it with delicious smells of sauteing onions and garlic. Tonight I took a short break from a long day at my desk to make a pot of chili. The recipe only has a few ingredients, but the most important of those is time. The longer you can leave the pot to simmer, the better. Winter is a time to do just that. A time for pondering over stews and soups and slow-roasted meats. In the time of wood-burning stoves, the heat did double duty as a method of cooking and also warming the home. Though most of us have electric or gas heat nowadays, I always think of my kitchen in winter as a sort of hearth. Anytime something is cooking, it feels warm and inviting. If you've ever been in a house full of people, you know that the smell of baking immediately draws everyone into the kitchen.
I imagine the satisfaction my great grandmothers and their mothers had when they pulled out their own carrots, potatoes, and onions from the root cellars to make meals each winter. It wasn't novelty to them, of course. It's just what they did. If they didn't grow and store enough food each summer in winter they could go hungry. It was simply survival.
Somehow the idea of this kind of bucolic existence has become synonymous with privilege in our society.
If my great great grandmother saw the ultra-high priced organic produce at Whole Foods i don't know if she'd laugh or cry. We are lucky in NYC to have a great network of local farmers so that we don't have to depend on supermarkets, but not everyone is so lucky.
I consider the availability of pure, nourishing foods to be a basic human necessity (or even a right), not a privilege. Moreover, the preparation of good food for oneself and others is such a simple act of kindness, that is often forgotten or underappreciated.

I once cooked a meal for a friend, who complimented me and thanked me profusely. Not used to this kind of praise, I passed off the compliments and said "it was nothing". She argued that it absolutely was something. She said "who cooks for you (as in, all of us), besides your mother and your lover?" It's important! I tend to agree. Now when people thank me for my food, I say "you're welcome".

This summer I heard a wonderful interview with Barbara Kingsolver. Kingsolver is most recently the author of Animal, Vegetable, Miracle which documents an entire year her family survived by procuring as much of their food as possible from neighboring farms and their own backyard.
The interview topic was "The Ethics of Eating" and I really loved the following quote.

" I think what suprised me the most is that we didn't really miss anything. We went into it probably thinking too much about what we were not going to be able to have (strawberries in January) but when we changed our thinking and started every meal with the question "what do we have? what's in season? what do we have plenty of?"
It became a long exercise in gratitude.
The ethical choice of supporting your local farmer also tastes better. And it does involve cooking, but that's also such a wonderful thing to come home to. I think that the planning of beautiful meals and investing one's heart and time in their preparation is the opposite of self indulgence".

It's a wonderful interview. You can download the entire podcast here

But back to that pot of chili I was making. While I typed this newsletter, the chili cooked and cooked three times longer than I usually leave it on. The results are fantastic.
This season, take some time to restore and reflect. Nourish yourself with some slow food when you can, and share it with friends!

Web news
In case you haven't visited the site lately, there's a new feature to check out. Each time you visit a new page, you'll see a new Unfussy Fact at the bottom. Facts are generated randomly each time a page is opened so keep surfing and see what new info you find!

Holiday Gifting
I know everyone is thrusting gift ideas on you all these days, and not all of them are good. I have a great one! The gift of good food and good health. A lot of folks want to improve their diets, and even learn more about cooking and food. Cooking classes, a gift of delivered meals or a pantry makeover are a great way to get started on the road to good eating! Unfussy Food offers something for every budget, and gift certificates to be redeemed in the New Year. Instead of just trying to keep New Year's resolutions, why not begin healthy lifelong habits?

Check out our Custom Services for gift ideas!

This week at the market...
tat soi, brussels sprouts, asian pears, Red Jacket Orchard's Tart Cherry Stomp (awesome cherry juice), cider donuts, apples, apples and more apples!

My favorite recipe of the week...
Roasted Autumn Vegetable Soup

One very nice thing to do this season is to forward my newsletter or a link to my website on to a friend. It's free, entertaining and hopefully enlightening.

Keep warm and eat well,

-Holly

Cool as a Carnation

Cool Foods

"no pit,
no husk,
no leaves or thorns,
the tomato offers
its gift
of fiery color
and cool completeness."

- from Pablo Neruda's Ode to Tomatoes

I've been asked this week to write about cooling foods. Once I began to ponder this subject, I realized that we only need to look to nature and tradition to find the answers. During the hot summer months, nature provides just the right foods for us to eat.
Cucumbers
Did you know that cucumbers are 95% water? I was suprised at this myself. Cucumbers are an excellent cooling and hydrating food. I love a simple salad of cold sliced cucumbers, salt, lemon and olive oil with a pinch of pepper flakes. Not only are cucumbers delicious, but they are great for the skin. If you have never taken an afternoon respite with a cold drink and a couple of cold cucumber slices over your tired eyes, you don't know what you're missing!

Tomatoes, Lettuce and Other Summer Vegetables
Tomatoes, due to their high water content are very cooling. Tomatoes are heavenly fruit, and I could wax poetic about them all afternoon, but I know enough to leave that to Neruda. Though I grew up eating some great hybrid garden tomatoes, my first ever transcendental experience involving a tomato was in 2001. I was in culinary school, in August, and I tasted my first bright yellow heirloom tomato from the Union Square Farmer's Market. It changed my food life forever, and tomato sandwiches have been a staple lunch item every summer since. A slab of whole grain bread, crisp lettuce, generous dollop of mayo, thick slice of tomato sprinkled with coarse salt. It's practically food-gasmic.
Before I create another newsletter entirely about tomatoes, I can't forget to mention celery, broccoli, lettuces, radishes and melons. All cooling foods which are at their peak in the hot summer months.

Spicy Foods
Believe it or not, spicy foods can be very refreshing when it's hot. There is a reason that populations near and South of the equator eat so many chiles. Remember what I said about tradition? Consumption of spicy foods encourages perspiration which cools the body. (Sweating is good for you!)
Yogurt and Frozen Fruit
Many cuisines that include spicy foods also accompany their dishes with dairy based condiments to balance the heat. Think Indian food with minty raita or a glass of mango lassi. Yogurt and berries are one of my favorite summer snacks. While ice cream can be heavy and cloying in hot weather (I eat much more ice cream in winter!), yogurt and fruit are refreshing. Organic dairy yogurt provides essential minerals, fats and protein in addition to healthy bacteria which keeps your digestive system in check.
Instead of ice cream, try natural fruit-sweetened popsicles to cool off. However, don't rely too much on ice cubes or icy treats in the heat. If you opt for cool foods more often than ice cold foods you'll be better off. People who live in hot places know this, and they don't use ice. The metabolic heat generated by the body when consuming a lot of ice cold foods actually makes you warmer.

Eat light but get enough protein
Big meals can slow you down. Try to eat smaller meals more often. Grilled fish is a great option in summer. Fish is quick and simple to prepare, has plenty of healthy fats and protein, goes great with summer vegetables and is delicious. Wild Sockeye and Alaskan King Salmon are in season right now. I bought my salmon last week at Wild Edibles in NYC. To be sure you're making an eco-friendly choice, check out Blue Ocean Institute's Guide to Ocean Friendly Seafood. Don't be afraid to ask questions about the fish you buy. Some fishmongers have an attitude when customers start asking questions, but a
"shut up and buy it" approach is bad for business. Overfishing and pollution are incredible problems, and educated consumers and sellers can do the most to help. Stay tuned for more on this next week.

Finally... liquids!
Sweating is great, but be sure to stay hydrated. Listen to your body and drink plenty of pure water. To break the monotony, also try chilled mint tea, coconut water (great source of electrolytes), chilled seltzer with fruit juice, cool smoothies and yogurt drinks. Iced coffee or a cold beer may be refreshing, but they act as diuretics so be careful not to over do it.
If all else fails, surround yourself with flowers! I have read that summer-blooming flowers like roses, carnations and jasmine all have cooling effects. Rosewater is used in Indian food and sweets. You can also spritz yourself with a cool rosewater spray. Back home in the South, blooming jasmine covers shady porches in the summer but around these parts we might have to settle for a nice chilled glass of jasmine tea.
If anyone has any recipes for carnations, let me know. They are said to have a spicy, peppery, clove like flavor. Just stay away from those blue ones!

Whichever way you choose, stay cool and enjoy the weeks to come!

Locavore

Scorpacciata

n : eating a particular ingredient in copious amounts in it's period of local perfection

Happy Spring! Today is the official first day, and what a beautiful one. This weather reminds me of the breezy days and cool nights of summer that I spent in the Mid West as a kid. I returned to my local farmer's market today after nearly a two week hiatus. Every time I show up this time of year there is something new. Today I found sweet and sour cherries for sale, so it's definitely time to make some fresh Cherry-Jalapeno Preserves to top off the Grilled Tandoori Lamb I always make on the 4th of July. I also scooped up a huge bag of yellow wax beans which will surely go in a great salad this weekend.
Eating locally (among it's other benefits) really makes me feel that I'm returning to my roots. Our country's food industry and culture has changed so much in the past twenty years. My summer food memories always include the first deep purple stalks and leaves of spring potato plants, picking tiny red strawberries in my grandfather's garden in June, shelling peas on the front porch in Arkansas with my cousins, hand-cranked vanilla ice cream and cake with blueberries before the fireworks on the 4th of July and shucking bushels of fresh sweet corn (again, on the porch, but this time with my brother) at harvest time in Nebraska.
I'm only thirty years old, so I feel funny saying "things were better back in my day" but living in the city has made me extremely aware of the lack of food culture we have in this country. My family, though as modern as any, has always had food traditions.
But food tradition is more than eating hot dogs on the 4th of July or Turkey at Thanksgiving (though these are some of the few traditions we thankfully hold on to). Food tradition as part of an overall food culture, is about sharing a connection with your food besides seeing it as a source of fuel or a source of stress. So much of our food information these days is negative.
The other day I was in line at my local food coop. I spied a glass jar of beautiful large, red and white speckled Italian beans. The person in line before me picked up the jar, took a look and put it down. I also picked up a jar to admire the color and shape of the beans, as they were so well displayed in glass. I assumed she was admiring them too. I immediately started thinking about cooking them until tender, adding a bit of red wine vinegar, shallot, salt, pepper and parsley to make a delicous heirloom bean salad. Then, to my suprise the other woman turned around to me and said "Did you see the calorie count on these things? There are 700 calories per serving!!"

I humorously remarked that I don't really count calories so that number didn't mean much to me, and besides.. they're beans! Beans, the food that populations rely upon as a staple all over the world. Of course beans probably have a lot of calories. They are a staple energy food. They keep people from going hungry. I've never liked looking at food like a numbers game. That doesn't really make it very fun to eat. It is true that some people do have to keep track of food numbers for health reasons, but i argue that if our society had a stronger food culture (such as Japan, France, Italy or almost anywhere) we wouldn't have so many health problems and obesity in the first place. I don't blame my fellow shopper for all of this, she is just part of a society that views food in an increasingly skewed fashion.

I fondly remember a food culture that focuses on the positives, the community and nourishment that we gain when we gather to eat together. It's about awareness of what food grows around us, the season in which it grows and connections with people who grow and provide it. Food culture and tradition starts early, when we teach our kids where vegetables come from, how to cook and how to eat. There are a myriad of programs that contribute to this effort in NYC including Cookshop
My internship with cookshop exposed me to the shocking truth about the diet of kids today, most of them have never seen vegetables in any other form than french fries. However, with a little coaching, we were able to transform a group of 6 year kids that couldn't recognize a raw sweet potato into a group of twenty little chefs who neatly chopped and separated their ingredients, loved cooking, learning about, and trying new vegetables. Little minds are like sponges so it's important that they have something positive to soak up. Another great program of this sort is Alice Waters' Edible Schoolyard
Since this program started by bringing vegetables grown by students into a school cafeteria in Berkeley, CA in 1997, schoolyard community gardens and the idea of homegrown, healthy cafeteria food has spread from coast to coast.

All this talk of food culture is inspired by an absolutely wonderful book I've just begun reading by Barbara Kingsolver called Animal, Vegetable, Miracle. It's not only an account of her own family's mission to live solely on locally produced and grown food for an entire year but also a compelling and thought-provoking examination of our society's food culture, and a joyous celebration of food and eating. I highly recommend!

Enjoy this first day of summer and the delicious months ahead! And thanks to the folks at Edible Brooklyn for the definition of that brilliant Italian term that titles this newsletter.

Strawberry Junkie

Wednesday, June 6th

Fraise, Fresa, Jahoda, Morango...

"Doubtless God
could have made
a better berry,
but doubtless God
never did."

- Dr William Butler, 17th century English writer

I woke up on Saturday morning at 7 am. As I stretched and yawned and looked at the clock, I wondered why on earth I was wide awake so early on the weekend? Then I remembered.. Strawberries! My subconscious knew enough to wake me up in time to get to the farmer's market to buy loads and loads of strawberries.
Last Saturday was the first time a fresh strawberry touched my lips since last autumn. I tucked into my first pint immediately after buying it, and shared a few with everyone around me. The first local strawberry of summer is more than just rewards for waiting out a long winter with only apples and pears to feed my fruit craving. Berry season has just begun, and I'm already up to a quart a week.
Strawberries are a member of the rose family, and are high in vitamin C as well as providing potassium and iron. The smaller the berry, the better the flavor some say. My favorite strawberries available at New York City farmer's markets are grown at Phillip's Farms in Milford, New Jersey. If you reside outside NYC, check out this map to find a farmer's market in your area.
There's nothing better than eating fresh strawberries out of hand, but you should try cooking with them too! With strawberry season also comes rhubarb. Rhubarb and strawberries are a perfect match for an easy fruit compote. Spooned over a lemon pound cake with some fresh organic whipped cream, this dessert reminds me of summers picking strawberries in Grandpa's garden.

Strawberry Rhubarb Compote

You will need:

• 1 pound rhubarb stalks, washed and cut into 1 inch lengths
• 1 pint strawberries, hulled and sliced in half
• zest and juice of one orange
• pinch of cloves
• 1/3 cup sugar
  

What to do:

• Combine all ingredients in a medium sauce pan
• Cook over medium high heat until rhubarb is tender, about 5-10 minutes (some pieces will remain whole while the rest break apart)
  
• Remove from heat and place compote in a bowl
• Cover and refrigerate. Compote will thicken as it cools and the rhubarb will release it's red juices.
  
• Enjoy! Try this compote for breakfast on pancakes, or with yogurt/ice cream.
  

Refreshment!

originally published Friday, May 25th

Summer Beverages

It's hot today! Great weather for a holiday weekend and a picnic. Hot weather means drinking a lot of liquids. In the winter and fall, I'm satisfied with drinking water most of the time but when summer comes I want variety. However, packaged drinks are often extremely sweet and contain strange preservatives. It's easy to make your own refreshing drinks if you keep a few simple ingredients around the house, such as teas, fruit juice, seltzer, a natural sweetener such as honey. Use them for entertaining, picnics or just keep a pitcher in the fridge for yourself.
My favorite summer beverages usually include some type of chilled tea, fruit juice and a simple syrup made from honey, water and fresh ginger slices. I also love fruit juices with seltzer added.
Here's an easy recipe for a fruity tea/punch that everyone loves. It includes fruit and hibiscus tea as the base. Hibiscus lends a vibrant red color to the punch, and it also provides health benefits.
When you're making a tea to serve chilled, remember to make it strong (usually 4 tea bags to 3 cups water.) I also recommend making a large batch of simple syrup to keep in the fridge for sweetening on the fly. Enjoy!

Hibiscus Tea Cooler

You will need:
• 1 inch piece of ginger root, peeled and sliced
• 1/4 cup honey
• 1/4 cup cold water

• 4 bags Tazo Passion herbal tea (or any Hibiscus, berry or fruit tea such as Red Zinger)
• 3 cups boiling water

• 3/4 cups fresh orange juice
• 1/2 cup peach nectar or juice
• orange slices for garnish

What to do:
• Combine honey, cold water and ginger slices in a small sauce pan
• Combine over low heat until honey is dissolved, turn off heat and steep ginger for 30 minutes
• Pour 3 cups boiling water over 4 tea bags, steep 5 minutes and remove bags, squeezing out liquid
• Add orange juice and peach nectar to brewed tea
• Remove ginger slices from honey-ginger syrup
• Add 1/2 cup honey-ginger syrup to brewed tea and juice mixture
• Serve over ice, garnished with fresh orange slices

Serves 3+

Spring Cleaning

originally published Thursday, May 17th

Adventures in Fasting
It's been an unusual spring. Two weeks ago I found myself uncharacteristically bored. I was surprised. Spring weather usually gives me an incredible amount of energy. The long days make me more energetic and extremely social. However, two weeks ago I found myself feeling lethargic, unable to focus and desperately in need of a change. It seemed the change of the season was not having it's usual effect.
I decided it was time for a cleanse. I clean my house every week, but it's been many many years since I went on any type of fast or cleanse for my body. This is for one simple reason. I like eating! I don't like to be deprived of food, so fasting isn't that much fun for me. It always sounds like a good idea, but my job and my life are so food-centric it requires a major mental commitment for me to stick to a specific diet for any length of time.
But really, when I thought it through, I realized that this was the very reason I should take a break from eating anyting and everything in my sight. To give my body a rest. I considered that maybe a respite from the usual followed by a fresh start would propel me out of my rut.
Every health nut and diet guru has an opinion about fasting. There's fresh veggie juice fasting and there's the Master Cleanse, where in fasters are forced to live on a special spicy lemonade for ten days. That never appealed to me. I don't have a lot of free time and I didn't feel like doing any measuring. I decided to follow my intuition, not to make any plans anddo what feels right.
My knowledge of fasting and cleansing tells me that it's best to ease into a fast with simple fresh fruits and vegetables. This sort of practice helps the body adjust to a bit of time with no food.
I started my first day with all fresh fruit. In my experience, being out of the house and busy helps a lot when you're trying to stick to any eating plan. I subsisted on local apples, pears as well as bananas and mangoes for one day and I felt great. I wasn't hungry at all. I woke up the next morning feeling more energetic, less heavy and more clear-headed. This was encouraging. One good thing about a day with only fruit is that I eliminated my bad habit of eating a heavy dinner very late at night. I do this too often, and I know it's not very good for me.
The second day of my cleanse I stuck to fruits in the morning and vegetables in the afternoon. Many people recommend this, due to the higher sugar content of fruits and the need for more energy earlier in the day. My last meal of the day was a salad of cucumber and avocado with a bit of lemon juice. I think it was the best thing I've ever tasted. I found myself wondering why I don't eat this way more often!
My official liquid fast started after two days of fresh fruits and vegetables and lasted about 30 hours. That doesn't seem like much time, but it's a lot for me. I drank several quarts of water with fresh lemon juice during the fast. I believed this would be a good kidney flush. During the fast, before my energy was totally sapped, I had time to do a lot of productive thinking. It's amazing how much time I have when I'm not eating or preparing food. I felt very relaxed and open to new possibilities and I've maintained the same feeling since then. So, I think the cleanse/fast was great. It did the trick. I am enjoying spring with an uncluttered mind and hopefully a less burdened digestive system.
It's good to break a fast the same way you start, with simple foods. A light soup, fresh juices, fruits and vegetables. It's hard, but it's worth it. The day after my fast ended I enjoyed (nay, relished) a plate of huevos rancheros as if I had just arrived on this planet. discovered brunch and was eating fried eggs and beans with spicy sauce for the first time. Oh, glorious huevos.
Fasting makes one appreciate food even more. When you're at a picnic and you can't eat, the spread of vegetables fruits, tortilla chips and mini pitas in front of you looks more vibrant and delicious than it ever would if you could tuck into it. Besides giving your body a break, think of it as an exercise in self control and a way to express appreciation for the bounty that is available to most of us.
Now that I know how many benefits come from even a short fast, I will do this again soon and for longer. I hope to learn even more from my next experience. If you want to try a cleanse or fast, spring is a great time. Make sure to stay hydrated and don't get too much exercise (like I did) while you are fasting or cleansing. Your body needs a break.
Good luck! Enjoy spring while it lasts.

Newsletter Archives
Many of you have told me how much you enjoy these newsletters. So, I've compiled all my online newsletters from this year and temporarily parked them in this blog . Feel free to reference them for recipes, check out issues you missed or pass the link on to a friend. Thanks for your continued support.

Sangria!?
Every summer I pick a food and beverage to experiment with. I've recently dubbed the summer of 2007 the summer of Sangria! I'll be making lots of Sangria, so you can look forward to recipes (or sharing it with me at one of my picnics). In the meantime, send me your Sangria ideas and favorite recipes. I'll print the best recipes in a future newsletter.

the Green Army

Of Artichokes and Asparagus

Spring has arrived, and leading the surge are two of the most grand and noble vegetables. For me, the year's first artichokes always bring to mind the words of the poet Pablo Neruda:

The artichoke
of delicate heart
erect
in its battle-dress, builds
it's minimal cupola:
keeps
stark
in it's scallop of
scales...

The artichoke is a flower bud, part of the sunflower family, eaten before it has bloomed. Rich in iodine, vitamin C, high in fiber and minerals, this stately vegetable has a delicate, almost buttery flavor.
Like mussels and oysters, I love any food that takes some time and patience to consume. Artichokes are best enjoyed with friends. Each tasty bite at the base of a leaf is an appetizer for the succulent main event, the heart. Dissecting an artichoke, with hunger and anticipation, is part of the fun and surely makes them more delicious.
Artichokes are an occasional delicacy for me. Because most US artichokes are grown in California, I don't eat them as often as vegetables I can obtain locally.
Artichokes are at their peak availability in spring. Look for compact heads with vibrant green leaves and avoid withered stems. To prepare, cut off the stem to the base, remove any loose leaves and cut 1/3 off the top of the bulb to expose the flower. Large bulbs can be simply steamed for 30-40 minutes in water with a bit of lemon juice or vinegar added.

Asparagus, like the artichoke, is also harbinger of spring. This phallic looking vegetable member of the lily family dates back to the age of reptiles when ferns were the dominant plants. Asparagus, if allowed to mature in summer, produces tall fern-like foliage. It grows heartily in regions of the US with sandy soil and ample rainfall. The cultivation of asparagus dates back to the time of ancient Romans, and there are reports of this perennial crop producing shoots for over 100 years.
Cultivating asparagus is a labor of love. Roots are planted in a trench, and slowly covered as the shoots grow up from the crown, reaching for the sun. It can take up to three years for an asparagus plant to produce shoots for harvest. In spring, a percentage of shoots are harvested and those left behind mature into ferns. The leaves in turn absorb light and, through the process of photosynthesis, allow the plant to store sugars over the winter. Because asparagus stores so much food, it is an especially hardy and fast-growing plant.
The season for asparagus is relatively short, as little as four weeks, so enjoy it while you can. I think it's reputation as an aphrodisiac has as much to do with it's nutrients ( vitamin A, B, C, E, potassium and zinc) as it's here today, gone tomorrow quality.
Local asparagus is available right now. Look for smooth, firm stalks with closed compact tips. The tips are delicious, so make sure they are not too damp or dry. Asparagus bunches without packaging are ideal. They can be kept standing in a container with two inches of water for a few days in the fridge. I recommend eating asparagus as soon as it is picked. To remove tough ends, simply grasp the stalks and break them. The tough part will naturally separate. They can be peeled and used for longer cooking dishes like soup. I love asparagus roasted or grilled, with a dash of olive oil, fresh herbs, salt, pepper and finished with a bit of lemon.
Like Neruda, I imagine the artichoke with it's armor-like scales, and the asparagus with it's tall spears, as part of a hearty vegetable army, announcing spring and making way for a parade of delicate shelling peas, fava beans and strawberries.
Seize the season! Get your fill of these vegetables before they disappear. Summer and the queen of vegetables (the juicy tomato of course!) will be arriving before you know it.

Food Nostalgia

originally published Friday, April 20th

Doughnuts and Cream Puffs and Pudding, Oh My!

Just when most people are doing extra crunches, skipping dessert and buying new bikinis, I've been doing a little indulging. We still have a while to go until beach weather arrives, but the warmer temperatures have encouraged me to get out and search for delicious food. Last week I found myself traveling in Oakland, California. On the last night of my trip, a little bored and a little sleep-deprived, I decided to take a walk. Within a few blocks of where I started, I caught wind of something glorious. The smell of fresh, sweet baked goods. I followed my nose further to find an old 24 hour doughnut shop. This was no Dunkin, but the real deal. With doughnuts, pastries and cakes all fresh and handmade with real ingredients. I soon found myself inside staring longingly at the glass case filled with sugary creations.
Now, I haven't eaten this kind of doughnut in years. I think I was still in elementary school the last time a filled, glazed doughnut touched my lips. One of my parents was a bit of a sugar-holic and one has been police officer my whole life so I know a great deal about doughnuts, and have had more than my share.. for breakfast, snacks and dessert. My dad and I always liked the vanilla creme-filled, maple-glazed long johns the best. I never knew why they called it a long john. Except that it is rectangular in shape as opposed to round, like a giant eclair. My dad's name is John, so as a kid I always liked them for that reason.
In my teen years when I became interested in healthy eating, my doughnut days came to an end. Since then I've only enjoyed the occasional handmade seasonal, organic creation from The Doughnut Plant on Grand St. in Manhattan. With flavors like lavender, strawberry and the Elvis doughnut (peanut butter-glazed and filled with banana creme. ) These are excellent, but there's just something about the maple-glazed long john that has always eluded me. It's the kind of doughnut made in an old fashioned shop run by someone's grandfather and served with 10 cent coffee. This is exactly what I found on my late night walk in Oakland.
Like most kids in the 70's and 80's, I grew up eating a lot of sweets. Starting with sweetened cereal for breakfast (with more sugar on top of course), sweet snacks throughout the day, and always dessert after dinner. It seems almost crazy to me now, the thought of eating ice cream on my breakfast waffles, or enjoying a plate of biscuits and hot chocolate pudding first thing in the morning.. but this is the way many people eat. An early start with so much sweet stuff made me a bit of a sugar-holic myself. Sugar has always been my biggest food weakness.
As a result, these days I rarely eat things containing cane sugar at all, especially when it's refined. I am also reluctant to use it in my cooking, opting instead for alternatives like maple syrup, honey or agave nectar.
I know that limiting or eliminating the sugar in my diet has improved my overall health, and helps me to crave the nutritious foods I really need, instead of reaching for empty calories. It is the above reasons, and the fact that I am a health-oriented chef and cooking teacher, that make the maple-glazed doughnut of my dreams even more taboo.
That said, I also believe in moderation and I believe that eating should be a source of enjoyment. If I project onto the simple maple-glazed doughnut all my fears, guilt and insecurity about breaking my healthy-eating rules I am sure to make it unhealthy. Guilt doesn't taste very good and I don't think it's very good for digestion.
The doughnuts, the cream puffs, the candied yams with marshmallow topping are probably not something we should indulge in too often. However, on the special occasion when I get the chance to have any of the above I try to enjoy them without guilt and savor every bite.
The maple-glazed vanilla pudding-filled long john doughnut I found in Oakland was amazing and delicious. It brought back fond memories of my childhood and my dad. Just as cream puffs smothered with chocolate sauce remind me of my grandmother and my great aunts, and hot biscuits covered with butter and chocolate gravy (a family tradition) bring me back to Wednesday mornings at my grandparent's breakfast table in Arkansas.
Healthy eating is not just about what you eat, but how you eat it. Eating a balanced diet but occasionally indulging in these sweet food memories is part of a healthy attitude towards food. So, savor every bite no matter what you eat. Eat with joy to nourish your body and also your soul. :)
Here's a sweet recipe you can enjoy whenever you like. I've always loved jam dot cookies, and these remind me of the delicious Archway brand cookies sold in grocery stores when I was a kid. This recipe comes from my culinary school days. For some reason, the staff was so obsessed with them that we made them all the time. I have baked hundreds. They are less sweet than packaged cookies, but quite addictive. Take them to a party and you'll see them disappear. For this recipe you will need a food processor.

Holly's favorite Jam Dot Cookies

1 cup raw almonds
1 cup whole wheat pastry flour
pinch sea salt
1 cup rolled oats
1/4 tsp cinnamon
1/2 cup light vegetable oil (like canola)
1/2 cup maple syrup
jam

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees
2. Pulse almonds in food processor into a coarse meal, remove
3. Using food processor, grind rolled oats to flour like consistency
4. Combine flour, oats, almonds, salt and cinnamon in a bowl
5. In another bowl, blend wet ingredients. Add to dry mix forming a well. Mix thoroughly
6. Roll into walnut sized balls. Place on an oiled cookie sheet. Press down with thumb
7. Drop rounded teaspoonful of jam into indentation in each cookie
8. Bake 15-20 minutes until golden brown. Don't over-bake. Cookies will become crisp as they cool.

Makes approx 1 1/2 dozen

Edible Queens

Wednesday, April 4th
Spring is a great time to eat. As the days grow longer and the temperature rises, thoughts of berries and tomatoes begin to dance in our heads. But be patient my foodies! We still have a few weeks before the farmers and their fields catch up and we see some spring vegetables. In the meantime, I intend to enjoy the warm weather by eating lighter and spending time outside, as well as enjoying my last few risottos and bolognese sauces on our remaining cool spring nights.

Edible Queens
I don't know about you, but I've got a case of spring fever this year. I've been traveling around the city quite a bit the last few weeks in search of good food, and I've found myself spending a lot of time in Queens.
Queens is geographically the largest of New York City's boroughs, and part of the most ethnically diverse county in the United States! Ethnic diversity usually brings rich culture, as well as authentic and delicious food. This is definitely true in Queens.
Greece and Eastern Europe
Extra virgin olive oil is one of the staples in my pantry. I use it to saute, sear, roast and pan-fry almost everything. Evoo is also my oil for salad dressings, homemade mayo and a finishing oil for soups and pastas. Because I go through olive oil by the liter, I'm always looking for a good quality brand that I can buy for a relatively low cost. Last year a friend tipped me off to the Greek olive oils available in Astoria, Queens.
Astoria is a Mecca of sorts for Greek food. Before I knew of all the Greek food offerings in Astoria, I made regular pilgrimages there to sample the food of my ancestors, at The Bohemian Hall and Beer Garden. Astoria was originally settled by Dutch and German immigrants, followed by a second wave of Czech, Irish and Italian immigrants in the 1890's. My Czech family also came to the United States in the late 1800's (though they pressed on to homestead in Central Nebraska) and the food traditions they brought informed the food I grew up with. I've made many a nostalgic trip to Astoria to drink a Pilsner Urquell and enjoy a grilled Kielbasy with rye bread, mustard and pickles or a plate of veprovy (roast pork) with gravy and dumplings. The Bohemian Hall boasts the oldest and largest beer garden in New York City. If you haven't made it there yet, you're missing out!
Since I already knew I'd find something delicious in Astoria, I eagerly drove at my friend's recommendation to Mediterranean Foods (23-18 31st Street). Not only did I find fantastic Greek olive oils, but also beautiful preserved fish, dozens of varieties of feta and all manner of Mediterranean staples such as tehina, grape leaves, dried dates and figs.
I walked out with arms loaded, but not so far that I couldn't stop just next door at Artopolis Bakery.
Artopolis offers a huge variety of specialty Greek breads, pies and pastries. I never leave with less than a dozen spanokopita and trikopita, as well as an entire box of baklava for myself, plus a few to share. Did I forget the olive oil flatbread? Oh, and the bittersweet chocolate baklava is so insanely delicious that it alone justifies the cost of a car rental. I promise.
Regional Egypt
Last year before my trip to Egypt, my friend insisted that we treat ourselves to an authentic Southern Egyptian meal prepared by his friend Chef Moustafa El Sayed at Mombar Egyptian Restaurant (25-22 Steinway St.) in Astoria. I was eager to get my first taste of authentic Egyptian food prepared in NY, to see how it compared with what I found in modern-day Cairo. The ornate entrance and lovingly decorated interior of Mombar are a good indication of the time and energy Chef Moustafa puts into his food. We ate a multi course feast including slowly cooked meats, beet and apple salad, roasted squab, mint tea and a delicious dessert with pomegranate and yogurt.
Chef Moustafa is quiet and thoughtful, making fine Egyptian food his mother would be proud of.
Last week we took our second trip to Little Egypt in Queens traveling just down the street to Kebab Cafe (25-12 Steinway St.) to sample the cuisine prepared by Chef Ali El-Sayed (brother of Moustafa). Chef Ali specializes in Northern Egyptian food, and serves during the lunch hour while his brother's restaurant is open only for dinner. To eat Ali's food is to be treated like royalty. From the mezze plate to the honey soaked basbousa (semolina cake), Ali serves up home style cooking with a dose of philosophy. His crispy duck and slow cooked lamb with chickpeas and just a hint of cinnamon made for a feast unlike anything i've ever called lunch. If you like a side of enlightening conversation with your food, it's Chef Ali you want to visit.
Brazil
While you are walking down Steinway Street after lunch at the Kebab Cafe, you'll notice a few Brazilian boutiques. The thought of Brazil might make you want to buy a bikini, but it also might make you hungry. That is, if you know about Churrascaria. Astoria, Queens is the main residential area for Brazilians in New York and a Churrascaria is basically a Brazilian steakhouse. Churrasco is the cooking method, which is loosely translated as barbeque. (In other South American countries, barbeque is referred to as Asado.) Churrascarias traditionally serve several types of meat (sausages, bacon wrapped turkey, filet, organ meats, etc), cooked rotisserie style and brought to the table and sliced by waiters until you signal that you've had enough.There are several Churrascarias in Queens and I've only recently been to one. Greenfield Churrascaria in Corona. I was lucky to to go with a group and not only was it fun, but the food was great. When i hear the words "salad bar" I am usually wary, but I was impressed with the freshness and quality of the vegetables available at this restaurant. A big salad as an appetizer made me feel a little more nourished and ready to sample lots of delicous fatty meat. I have to say that I don't usually like turkey but the churrasco bacon-wrapped turkey was just about the best morsel of meat I've ever tasted. But, as my friend helpfully pointed out, everything is better wrapped in bacon. Ah, touché
I haven't even mentioned the Szechuan hot pot in Flushing or Indian food in Jackson Heights. There is so much more to cuisine in Queens, and all the other boroughs of New York City. If you're lucky enough to live here, I encourage you to get out and find it!

Glorious Rice

Friday, March 16th

Glorious Rice

Grain upon grain
Fresh and delightful as frost
A dazzling jewel
To what can I compare this treasure?

- Yang Mi (Ming Dynasty)

Rice is the predominant food for more than half the world's population. In China, rice is so important that a typical Chinese greeting is translated literally as "have you eaten your rice yet?". Native to Southeast Asia, rice is thought to have been brought West through travelers and conquests, arriving in the Americas with the Spanish in the early 17th century. The United States now grows 1% of the world's rice and exports the majority of this crop. Most varieties of rice are grown in semi-aquatic conditions (flooded fields). Though most rice growing in wealthier countries is now mechanized, traditional rice farming still exists in many parts of the world; with rice sown, transplanted and harvested by hand often under harsh conditions.
There over 8,000 varieties of rice, generally divided into three categories: short, medium and long grain. Short grain rice has a higher starch content which makes it more sticky when cooked. Long grain rices are preferable when light separate grains are required, such as in a pilaf.
No matter the variety, all rice has an inedible outer hull that must be removed through a milling process. Beneath the hull, the rice grain is composed of many layers including multiple vitamins, minerals and essential fats. Since many nutrients are concentrated near the surface of the grain, milling influences the flavor, nutritive value and shelf life of rice depending on how many layers are removed.
After milling, rice is available to consumers in several ways:
Whole Rice also knows as brown rice, has it's outer bran layer intact and therefore all it's nutrients present. The bran layer of rice also protects the rice germ's natural fatty acids. You will find the most flavor and variety in whole rices. This category includes traditional long grain brown rice, perfumed rices like brown basmati, as well as unique varieties such as black japonica and wehani red rice. Though wild rice is a member of a different species, it is categorized with whole rice in terms of it's nutritional value.
Partially Milled Rice is preferable for some people who prefer a shorter cooking time or have trouble digesting whole rice. This rice is processed by partially scratching the bran layer from the rice, leaving some of the bran's nutrients and protective properties in tact.
Partially milled rice is not commonly eaten in the United States.
Refined, White or Polished Rice is the most common form of rice eaten in the United States and Asia. This type of rice is milled and all of the bran and germ are removed, stripping the rice of many nutrients and leaving mainly starch. This process greatly extends the shelf life of rice, but because it is such a refined food, I recommend it be eaten in moderation.
Partially Cooked Rice is a category that includes parboiled, converted and instant rice. These types of rice are pre-steamed or cooked in different ways and then dried to create a more convenient product with shorter cooking time. In my opinion, they are seriously inferior in flavor and texture, akin to eating styrofoam, thus not recommended.
Arborio and Sushi Rice are two examples of refined rices that have specific applications. Arborio is a classic round white rice used in Italian cooking to make Risotto. It is considered one of the finest types of rice because of it's ability to absorb large quantities of liquid, creating a delicious porridge-like dish to which savory ingredients like mushrooms and cheese are often added.
Sushi Rice is also a short round rice with a high starch content that becomes sticky when cooked. Sushi rice is mixed with salt, sugar and vinegar to create the base for classic Japanese dish.
My Favorite Rice
My favorite purveyor of whole rice is Lundberg Family Farms in California. Their crops are grown using ecologically sustainable methods and their products are delicious. I highly recommend the Wild Rice Blend. You can find a recipe for Wild Rice Salad with Nuts and Dried Fruit on my website.

Rice Tutorial
One of the most common questions I get as a cooking teacher is "can you teach me how to cook rice?" Due to the prevalence of partially cooked rices, minute rice and the like.. the really simple cooking process of this grain is unnecessarily shrouded with mystery.
Rice is a very simple grain to cook, and the easiest way to make a mistake is to lose faith in yourself or to over-think it! Here are my tips for cooking rice:

Follow the package directions. Seriously, who knows better how to cook the rice than the people who grew and packaged it? If you purchase rice in bulk, check the bin for cooking instructions or email me for a general rice cooking chart.
For fluffy, separate grains choose a long grain rice and add to boiling water. For creamy grains that stick together use a short grain rice and add to cold water before bringing to a boil
Use a good quality saucepan with a thick bottom and a tight-fitting lid. No not use glass or aluminum, as both materials are poor/inconsistent conductors of heat.
Measure accurately, using a liquid measuring cup for liquid and a dry measuring cup for rice.
Seasoning! Don't forget the salt. This will make all the difference in the flavor of your dish. I recommend coarse kosher or sea salt.
Once rice and liquid have come to a boil, reduce to a low simmer. There should be small bubbles consistently rising to the surface at this stage. Then, place the lid on the pot and set a timer for the recommended time.
DON'T PEEK! This is the most important tip. Rice cooks via steaming. If you remove the lid to "check" the rice you let steam escape. This will cause the rice to cook improperly or even burn. So, don't peek okay? Trust the rice. If the heat is on low and it is cooking for the recommended time it will turn out perfectly.
When the time is up, remove the lid and check the rice by sticking a fork or a chopstick in all the way to the bottom. If you see no liquid, the rice is done.
Remove from heat. Allow cooked rice to stand in the pot uncovered for at least ten minutes (off the stove), then fluff and serve.
A final rice note: To rinse or not to rinse?
I know some one will ask, should I rinse my rice? Many people rinse rice before cooking, claiming that it removes some starch and improves texture. If you choose to do this, you can place uncooked rice in a bowl and rinse several times until the water is no longer milky. Then, drain and proceed with cooking.
Personally, I never rinse rice and have noticed little difference.

Wheat overload?

originally published Thursday, March 8th

A Whole Grainaissance

It is believed that humans cultivated grains for food more than 12,000 years ago. Grains have co-evolved with humankind, playing a central role in the diet of cultures throughout the world. Grains such as wheat have long held religious significance, and played a role in sacred rituals.
While rice constitutes a staple food in much of Asia, wheat is the principal food on most other continents.
Whole grains are an important part of a healthful diet. Whole grains are composed of starch, bran and germ. Besides legumes, they are the only food that contains all major nutrients needed by the body: carbohydrates, fats, minerals, vitamins, protein and fiber. Whole grains are an excellent source of B complex vitamins which are necessary for healthy nerves. The dietary fiber in whole grains helps to normalize the digestive system, and their complex carbohydrates help stabilize blood sugar.

Wheat: an ancient grain with modern problems
Since the late 1920's wheat crops have been genetically altered to resist smut (a fungus disease of plants.) Because wheat products are so ubiquitous in the modern American diet, it is theorized that this genetic manipulation may be the cause of the wheat allergy or insensitivity that effects 15% of the population.

Variety in the staff of life
Most who have trouble digesting commercial wheat can enjoy heirloom (non-hybrid) varieties such as spelt or kamut. Besides simply eating the whole berry (the name for a whole wheat grain with the inedible hull removed) there are a myriad of food products available today including ancient (heirloom) wheat and whole grain alternatives.
I encourage you to try some of the following grains whole to discover their unique flavor and texture.
Buying grains in bulk often ensures quality and the best price. Look for grain with few broken, scratched and deteriorated pieces to ensure good quality.

Wheat and ancient wheat...
such as spelt or kamut are delicious alternatives to rice. They also make superior flours for bread, pasta and pastries. Spelt is smaller than kamut but both have a slightly nutty flavor and chewy texture. Whole wheat relatives like this cook best when soaked overnight, just like beans.

Quinoa
A quick-cooking whole grain, and delicious to boot. Like millet, quinoa is not a true cereal grain but is commonly used as one. Native to the Andes, this disk shaped grain is crunchy and delicate and very high in protein. Because of the presence of bitter saponin (a naturally occuring pest deterrent) quinoa needs to be rinsed before cooking. Try the recipe below.

Teff
Used primarily in Ethiopia, teff flour is the base of the staple flatbread called Injera. Teff has it's own symbiotic yeast, which gives the fermented bread a pleasantly sour flavor.
This tiny grain can also be eaten whole. I prefer it mixed with white basmati rice (since they have similar cooking times). It can be found at natural food stores and some African markets.

Amaranth
Another tiny grain originally cultivated by the Aztecs, Amaranth is high in protein and calcium. Amaranth is grown for it's grain, leaf and dye. It is a prized garden ornamental, with beautiful magenta flowers contrasting tall green stalks.

Millet
Originally cultivated in China, the Middle East and the Mediterranean, Millet is still a staple food in some parts of Africa. Some varieties of these tiny round grains are also used for birdseed.
Millet is high in iron and excellent for digestion. I like millet best cooked in a rice pilaf with quinoa and basmati rice.

There are so many more grains. This is only the beginning. I encourage you to try a new grain this week. A pot of quinoa, a sprouted spelt tortilla, or some rice noodles! ( I didn't forget rice, that's next week.) Email me for more recipe ideas and a grain cooking chart.

Herbed Quinoa Pilaf

You will need:

 2 cups quinoa (red or white)
 3 cups water
 1/2 Tbsp kosher salt
 chopped fresh cilantro, parsley, mint or basil to taste

What to do:

 Thoroughly rinse grain three times and drain to remove bitter coating
 Place in water and add salt
 Bring to a simmer and cover
 Let simmer for 20 minutes
 Let cool, fluff with a fork and toss with fresh herbs
 Serve warm with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil

Serves 8

To cook, to eat and to learn...

originally published Thursday, March 1st

A noble fruit, a handy gadget and a delicious magazine

Pears
Tis the season to eat Pome fruits. When I need a break from apples I often turn to it's relative, the pear. Back home in Arkansas I had a pear tree in my back yard. Those perfectly ripe, perfumey, melt in your mouth fruits right outside my kitchen window are synonomous with memories of home. Though I no longer have a pear tree of my own, I am lucky to live in close proximity to farmers who do!
Pears, native to Central Asia, have been culivated for over 3,000 years. Prized by the ancient Egyptians, Romans, Greeks and Chinese, pear varieties number in the hundreds. Pears are high in fiber, potassium and boron and are thought to be a cleansing fruit. They can be eaten out of hand, baked, pickled, poached and like apples, can be made into a delicious sauce or butter.
Most commercial American pears are grown in Washington, Oregon and California. Common varieties include Bartlett, Anjou, Bosc, Comice, Packham and Seckel.
Seckel and Bartlett pears are available in late summer while winter pears like Bosc are available from early fall to spring. Pears are best ripened off the tree and store well, making them a perfect winter fruit.
Sweet pears like Anjou and Bartlett are my favorite for slicing and eating. Ripe Seckels are especially good with cheese! and firm, elegantly shaped Boscs are best for baking and poaching.
Lately I've been adding Bosc pears to my Fuji applesauce. They add a delicious aroma and a bit of texture which perfectly complements the sweet cooked apples. Stay tuned for a recipe.

The Food Mill
If you like to cook, here's an inexpensive piece of equipment you're sure to love and find many uses for. It's a cone shaped metal object with a hand crank and a screen in the bottom with circular holes. Sometimes it's also called a ricer, but it does so much more.
I first started to use a food mill working at a Mediterranean restaurant where we made our own roasted tomato sauce every day. Food mills are primarily used to puree ingredients and leave skins and seeds behind (as in the case of tomatoes). It makes perfect tomato sauce, apple sauce, fluffy mashed potatoes and pureed soups.
In my opinion there is a marked difference in the flavor of food when it's made by hand, instead of subjected to electrically powered blades. Food mills also preserve a bit of the texture and integrity of the fruit and vegetables that a blender would not. If it's a more rustic tomato sauce you are looking for, or a smooth, creamy bowl of mashed potatoes give it a try!
I recommend buying a stainless steel mill, with three removable screens (with different size holes).
Don't spend too much. Any restaurant supply should carry a model appropriate for home use for under $30. There are also smaller varieties sold especially for making baby food, but you might as well buy a larger one you can use for everything.
To make a delicious Fuji apple-Bosc pear sauce, chop 2 apples and 2 pears. Drop chopped fruit in a sauce pan and cover with water. Add a pinch of salt, bring to a boil and simmer covered for at least 30 minutes. Check occasionally to make sure there is still water in the pot. When apples and pears are soft, puree through a food mill and serve warm! Delicious.

Edible Brooklyn
Just in case you haven't seen it yet, keep an eye out for the new issue of Edible Brooklyn . Published quarterly (seasonally) this magazine is a great resource for Brooklyn foodies. Covering artisanal/authentic food producers and purveyors in our very own borough. Complete with seasonal recipes and a restaurant directory, I read each issue cover to cover (and always get hungry!)

Tackling Squash-o-Phobia

originally published Thursday, February 23rd

Squish Squash
The humble winter squash comes in so many varieties. From oblong yellow and orange speckled delicatas to golden and green armored acorns and everyone's favorite, the smooth, creamy butternut. All squash are part of the gourd family and fit into two categories.
Where summer squash (like zucchini) are soft and perishable, winter squash such as those listed above are often harvested in late summer or fall but can be cured and kept for months in a cool place, thus the name.
Winter squash are a great source of natural sugars, complex carbohydrates and beta carotene. In addition many varieties contain high amounts of essential minerals and vitamins B and C.

The other important thing you should know about winter squash is that they are easy to prepare, and delicious!
If you've never enjoyed any it's time to start now.
At the farmer's market or other seasonal markets, you will see many varieties of winter squash. This can be intimidating, but here's a little tutorial to get you started.
In general, pick squash that are heavy for their size and with no soft spots or cracks.
They should have a hard rind and an intact stem. The darker the flesh, the sweeter the squash.
To prepare, wash the squash and carefully cut open. This will take a sharp knife and a steady hand. If the squash is extremely large, you can trim a bit off the base to make it flatter for a more safe cut.
Then, scoop out the stringy flesh and seeds. (These seeds can be saved for roasting just like pumpkin seeds. Email me for a recipe!)
The most simple and delicious preparation for winter squash is to roast them.
Lightly coat squash halves or wedges with extra virgin olive oil and season with salt and pepper.
Place cut side down on a baking pan and pop into a 400 degree oven for 30-50 minutes, until flesh is soft and does not stick to the roasting pan. Allow to cool and dig in!
Most winter squash can be baked with skin on, and the flesh scooped out to serve. When cooking squash for a soup or puree, you may find it easier to peel first.
Here are some more details on squash varieties.

Acorn
Shaped like a big acorn, this squash comes in green or golden varieties, the golden being the sweeter of the two. Acorn has a nutty flavor that is great simply roasted with a dash of cinnamon and a bit of maple syrup drizzled over when they're still warm!

Delicata
This oblong squash is ivory with orange, green and yellow specks. It has a light, sweet flavor similar to butternut. For best results, season lightly and bake with olive oil or butter.

Buttercup
This squash is wider and flatter than an acorn, with a dark green rind and white stripes. Just like acorn, a buttercup squash is great when stuffed and baked with wild rice or other stuffing. It has a mild flavor, and it is more dense and dry than other varieties.

Butternut
A favorite among chefs, this squash has a long wide neck and very few seeds. It's pale, butterscotch color makes it very recognizable. This squash is smooth and sweet; excellent for roasting in small cubes, mashing or making a delicious soup. Butternut squash is great for big dishes as it's very easy to peel.

Red Kuri
A more rare Japanese variety and bright orange in color. This squash is great for pies and purees, much like kabocha.

Spaghetti
A very unique squash. After cooking, one opens to find "miles of tender golden strands" that resemble the familiar pasta. Serve as you would spaghetti, with a light sauce of tomato or pesto. This variety is high in fiber and folic acid.

For those cooks who are really inspired, here's one of my favorite soups. It contains loads of winter squash as well as other seasonal vegetables.
This soup is great for a rainy day and well worth the effort. The sweetness of roasted apple and squash blends perfectly with the spicy hint of parsnip and fennel.

Roasted Autumn Vegetable Soup
Recipe Holly Mendenhall

You will need:

 1 medium parsnip, peeled and diced into small pieces
 1 medium bulb fennel, tops removed, cored and sliced
 2 small carrots, peeled and diced into 1 inch cubes
 1 medium red onion, peeled and sliced
 2 small winter squash of any variety (butternut, ambercup, delicata) peeled and diced into 1 inch cubes (about 4 cups)
 1 small apple, cored and diced (sweet variety such as gala or macintosh)
 1 small bulb celeriac or celery root, peeled and diced (about 1/2 cup)
 2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil or butter
 1 medium yellow onion, diced
 2 large cloves garlic, peeled and minced
 6 cups vegetable stock
 kosher salt and ground black pepper

What to do:

 Preheat conventional oven to 400 degrees and toss first 6 ingredients one at a time in olive oil, seasoning with salt and pepper

 Arrange vegetables separately on sheet trays, with varieties of squash, celeriac and parsnips on one, apple, onion and fennel on the other

 Roast in oven for 30 to 40 minutes until vegetables are soft and slightly carmelized, remove from oven (if parsnips and carrots are not quite done, that's okay)

 Add olive oil or butter to a large saucepan over medium high heat

 Saute yellow onions until translucent and beginning to carmelize, about 10 minutes

 Add garlic and saute for one minute more or until fragrant

 Add all of the roasted vegetables and vegetable stock, bring to a boil

 Reduce heat to a simmer and cook 20 minutes until all vegetables are completely soft

 Allow to cool and puree with a submersible blender or standing blender. Add more stock for a thinner consistency. Season with salt and pepper and enjoy! Serves 6

*feel free to share this recipe, but please do not reprint or use for commercial purposes without permission

Need a boost?

originally published Thursday, February 15th 2007

Energy Snacks

Supermarket and health food store shelves these days are packed with energy bars, protein bars and all manner of supposedly healthy snacks.
Originally used by athletes to improve performance, these products are now mass-marketed for everything from weight loss to blood glucose management. Many consumers are fooled by health claims and attractive packaging into thinking that these items are a positive addition to their diet.

The truth is, most energy snacks are more like candy in a sporty or eco-friendly wrapper.

What makes these snacks so unhealthy you say?
I'm glad you asked. Besides containing highly processed and sometimes synthetic ingredients, they are often sweetened with high fructose corn syrup. Our old friend high fructose corn syrup is getting alot of attention these days. It is the primary sweetener used in soft drinks, fruit juices and most processed food products such as breads and cereals. Teenagers and children are among the largest consumers of this sweetener. With studies showing that on average, teenage boys consume three or more soft drinks each day.. school districts have begun to ban vending machines dispensing sweet soft drinks in their cafeterias. But don't be fooled by other beverages like Snapple. Fruit drinks often contain as much or more high fructose corn syrup than soft drinks, and very little fruit juice.

How did this happen?
Good question. Before 1970, most of the sugar we ate came from beets or sugar cane. The advent of processing corn gave us a much less expensive source of sweeteners, like corn syrup, dextrose and fructose. High fructose corn syrup has been manipulated to contain twice as much fructose, making it a potent, cheap and rather unnatural sweetener.
The problem with a sugar rush is that it's not a sustainable source of energy. Much like caffeine, it peps you up for a bit. Then, you come crashing down as your body struggles to absorb and metabolize these powerful stimulants.


So, what if my energy snacks don't contain high fructose corn syrup?
There are plenty of more "natural" energy snacks these days. Items like Clif Bars or Luna Bars offer a tiny bit healthier alternative to bars with high fructose corn syrup and fortified with synthetic vitamins. But this doesn't mean you are in the clear. I will revert to my personal rule here and say that the less processed the food product, the mo better it is for you to eat.
When i pick up something off the shelf packed with energy bars, I look at it like a treat. I see a fruit and nut bar as dessert, not as a meal replacement, and neither should anyone.

After all, why do you need so much energy to begin with?
Are you an Olympic athlete? Or are you worn out because you don't get enough rest, are too stressed, don't eat a balanced diet full of whole foods, or maybe you're crashing by lunch time because you drink too much coffee?
If any of these are the case, energy snacks are not the answer to your troubles.
The solution is not always easy, but there's a simple way to start on the path to good health. Get some rest, and eat real food.

If it's energy, stamina and nutrients you want... eat an apple. The humble apple contains vitamins, minerals and fiber which regulates the absorption of it's naturally occuring sugars. Apples (even organic) cost a few cents. Although they don't come in a sexy package, they are a tried and true health food. What's better, they grow on trees so they are easy to come by. If you need a little protein, add a handful of raw almonds. If you have a few more minutes, a nice slice of whole grain bread with almond butter and raw honey will trump a Luna bar any day.

Still can't handle giving up those dense little bars? Here's a real food energy bar recipe from Ellie Kreiger. It contains grains, nuts, seeds and dried fruit as well as natural maple syrup. These bars also have organic non fat dry milk powder and eggs. Yes, real eggs. What better source of protein is there than eggs? Eggs also serve as the binder in these bars. They are pleasantly sweet and filling, with lots of healthy fats from raw nuts. You can substitute different nuts and fruit to create your own version. Enjoy!

REAL Energy Bars

Canola or Olive Oil to coat baking pan
1/2 cup raw unsalted sunflower seeds
1/2 cup toasted wheat germ
1/4 cup whole wheat pastry flour
1/2 cup dried apricots
1/2 cup raw almonds
1/2 cup raisins
1/2 cup pitted dried dates
1/2 cup powdered organic non fat dry milk
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1/3 cup pure maple syrup
2 large (naturally raised farm fresh) eggs

• Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Coat a 9 by 9 inch baking pan with a little oil and cover the bottom with parchment paper (to keep bars from sticking).

• Place all the ingredients except the syrup and eggs in a food processor and pulse until the mixture is finely chopped.

• Add the maple syrup and lightly beaten eggs and pulse until mixture is well combined. It will resemble a coarse paste

• Transfer to the baking pan and spread evenly.

• Bake until just done, about 15-20 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool completely.

• Cut into squares. Makes about 8 bars.

Is that food?

originally published Thursday, February 8th 2007

Would my great-great-grandmother eat this?
The food world is unnecessarily confusing these days. The more you read, the more conflicting views you find on what foods you should eat. Scientific studies, "revolutionary diets" and health claims abound. But before doctors, nutritionists, journalists and that girl in the office next door told us what we should eat, how did we know?

The answer is simple, tradition.

I strongly urge everyone to read the article written by Michael Pollan printed in NY Times Magazine Sunday, January 28th. In "Unhappy Meals" , Pollan takes on the issue of what to eat with gusto, but not without humor.
I support the following suggestions:

• Eat food your great-great-grandmother would recognize as food. Which means that those Soy Protein Crisps and that Blue Gatorade are probably out.

• Avoid processed food with health claims. 'When Kellogg's can boast about it's Healthy Heart Strawberry Vanilla cereal bars, health claims have become hopelessly compromised. (The American Heart Association charges food makers for their endorsement.) Don't take the silence of the yams as a sign they have nothing valuable to say about health."

• Avoid food products with more than five ingredients, especially if you cannot pronounce them. I have long exercised this policy when shopping for food. I tend not to eat things when It's not obvious where they've come from.

• Buy food as close to the source as possible. Shopping at local farmer's markets really eliminates the guess work. Download a map of NYC green markets here.

• Pay more for better food and eat less. Americans spend more money and time worrying about their diets than actually enjoying food. Quality food fills you up faster and leaves you more satisfied.

• Cook! Cooking is becoming a lost tradition, where it once was an essential element of life. Our ancestors spent half their lives growing and procuring food. We can spare a few minutes a day. I suggest starting with breakfast.

• Food is more than fuel. Eat more like the French, the Greeks, or any society more traditional than our own who values food as communion, pleasure and part of their culture. Enjoying food in a myriad of ways benefits your health. Share food with friends and you'll see.

• Eat like an omnivore. Restricted diets do more harm than good, not just to our bodies but to biodiversity. Try new species of foods. The more varied your diet the more likely it is to be healthful.

For so much more, check out the full article. If you don't have time to read it now, print it out and read it later. It's that important.

Winter Weekend Bread

originally published Thursday, February 1st 2007

Winter Weekend Bread
As I get older, I feel more strongly the pull of nature's seasons and cycles. I've noticed that I need more rest than I used to. I don't really feel like working after dark and I can't pull an all-nighter too often without consequences,
This winter, more than any other so far, I feel like staying in. The lack of cold weather this winter hasn't stopped me from enjoying lots of movies at home, letter-writing, knitting, cooking and baking. I find a lot of pleasure in these activities especially when I remember how different things are in summer. While summer is a time for long sun-filled days, lots of activity and spending time outside.. winter is a time of rest, renewal and reflection.
I've come to appreciate the slow speed of my winter activities, and I'm willing to invest a little extra time in projects and endeavors that promise to yield great results.
Lately I've been having some fun with this bread recipe originally printed in a New York Times piece by Mark Bittman last November. The recipe comes from Jim Lahey at Sullivan Street Bakery. It's a no-knead bread recipe that requires almost no work. Besides a few simple ingredients, all you need is patience and a little time. It's a great activity for a cold winter weekend. Start your bread on Friday or Saturday afternoon and bake the following day. You'll be amazed how nice it is to have the house filled with the smell of yeast and baking bread, especially when you've done so little work. Give it a try! Let me know what kind of variations you come up with!
Seasons are a gift, so enjoy this lovely time while it lasts. We'll be plugging in those air conditioners before you know it!

No-Knead Bread
Adapted from Jim Lahey, Sullivan Street Bakery
Time: About 1 1/2 hours plus 14 to 20 hours' rising

3 cups all-purpose or bread flour, more for dusting **
1/4 teaspoon instant yeast
1 1/4 teaspoons salt
Cornmeal or wheat bran as needed.

1. In a large bowl combine flour, yeast and salt. Add 1 5/8 cups water, and stir until blended; dough will be shaggy and sticky. Cover bowl with plastic wrap. Let dough rest at least 12 hours, preferably about 18, at warm room temperature, about 70 degrees.
2. Dough is ready when its surface is dotted with bubbles. Lightly flour a work surface and place dough on it; sprinkle it with a little more flour and fold it over on itself once or twice. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rest about 15 minutes.
3. Using just enough flour to keep dough from sticking to work surface or to your fingers, gently and quickly shape dough into a ball. Generously coat a cotton towel (not terry cloth) with flour, wheat bran or cornmeal; put dough seam side down on towel and dust with more flour, bran or cornmeal. Cover with another cotton towel and let rise for about 2 hours. When it is ready, dough will be more than double in size and will not readily spring back when poked with a finger.
4. At least a half-hour before dough is ready, heat oven to 450 degrees. Put a 6- to 8-quart heavy covered pot (cast iron, enamel, Pyrex or ceramic) in oven as it heats. When dough is ready, carefully remove pot from oven. Slide your hand under towel and turn dough over into pot, seam side up; it may look like a mess, but that is O.K. Shake pan once or twice if dough is unevenly distributed; it will straighten out as it bakes. Cover with lid and bake 30 minutes, then remove lid and bake another 15 to 30 minutes, until loaf is beautifully browned. Cool on a rack.

Yield: One 1 1/2-pound loaf.

**Recipe Note: I've had great results with a mixture of 2 cups whole wheat bread flour and 1 cup unbleached white bread flour. It yields a crusty, delicious loaf that is pleasantly chewy as whole grain bread should be.

Food to the rescue!

originally published Thursday, Jan 25th, 2007

It's officially winter, and the holiday rush is over. It's the perfect time to come down with that cold you've been meaning to get! I've been hearing a lot of coughing and sneezing around town lately. Here are a few ways that I boost my immune system with food.

Vitamin C
Everyone knows that vitamin C helps you heal and boosts immunity. Citrus is a great source of vitamin C, but don't forget other great sources such as red bell pepper, broccoli, berries, tomatoes and potatoes with the skin. Check out the web site for more nutrition facts here . I also love packets of powdered vitamin C. They are perfect for busy people!

Ginger
The healing properties of ginger are well documented. Besides being an anti-inflammatory, ginger aids in digestion and settles the stomach. Ginger has a warm and spicy bite that can help clear a stuffy head. In addition to soups, curries and teas, try fresh ginger added to carrot or vegetable juice.

Thyme
An old-timer once told me that the herb thyme is a potent anti-bacterial and anti-viral. Besides using this fresh herb often in my cooking, I like to keep a bottle of essential oil of thyme around. A few drops on a hankerchief gives me a little extra peace of mind when that person next to me has a coughing fit on the bus. A pot of hot water with rosemary and thyme makes a great steam for someone with a stuffy nose.

Eating Light
When I'm feeling under the weather I like to include a bit of lean protein in my diet and some simple vegetables. I have found a piece of fish and a salad or cooked greens is ideal. When your body is out of balance, it needs energy to repair. Eating light and getting lots of rest makes me feel much better quickly.

Good old fashioned chicken soup
There is something to the old remedy of chicken soup for a cold. Recent scientific studies have shown that chicken soup has many healing properties. A steaming bowl of broth relieves a congested head and garlic and pepper (common ingredients in chicken soup) are traditional remedies for respiratory ailments. Chicken soup is also said to act as an anti-inflammatory, which aids the healing process. Chicken and vegetables cooked in a broth release a combination of important minerals and amino acids. If you can get someone who loves you to prepare it, even better!

So take care of yourself! Winter is a time of rejuvenation. Take a cue from nature.. enjoy the rest, even hibernate a bit, and look forward to spring!

What lives here..

Welcome to my archive. As you might know, I run a small personal chef service in Brooklyn called Unfussy Food. Food is such a big part of my professional and social life and occupies my thoughts most of the time. I often find myself working alone in the kitchen and I have time to think a lot about food and related topics. I decided that I needed a personal outlet for my musings on these topics. If for no other reason than to keep me sane as a self-employed person. I started my online newsletter last year as a vehicle for sharing information about cooking, food history/philosophy, recipes and chronicling my food-related adventures. So many people have enjoyed my writing that I felt a need to collect it all and park it somewhere. So that regular readers can easily reference the info I've shared, and new subscribers can peruse past issues. I've always wanted to explore a career in food writing, so hopefully this process will be an impetus for more. Welcome, and enjoy!