Edible Queens

Wednesday, April 4th
Spring is a great time to eat. As the days grow longer and the temperature rises, thoughts of berries and tomatoes begin to dance in our heads. But be patient my foodies! We still have a few weeks before the farmers and their fields catch up and we see some spring vegetables. In the meantime, I intend to enjoy the warm weather by eating lighter and spending time outside, as well as enjoying my last few risottos and bolognese sauces on our remaining cool spring nights.

Edible Queens
I don't know about you, but I've got a case of spring fever this year. I've been traveling around the city quite a bit the last few weeks in search of good food, and I've found myself spending a lot of time in Queens.
Queens is geographically the largest of New York City's boroughs, and part of the most ethnically diverse county in the United States! Ethnic diversity usually brings rich culture, as well as authentic and delicious food. This is definitely true in Queens.
Greece and Eastern Europe
Extra virgin olive oil is one of the staples in my pantry. I use it to saute, sear, roast and pan-fry almost everything. Evoo is also my oil for salad dressings, homemade mayo and a finishing oil for soups and pastas. Because I go through olive oil by the liter, I'm always looking for a good quality brand that I can buy for a relatively low cost. Last year a friend tipped me off to the Greek olive oils available in Astoria, Queens.
Astoria is a Mecca of sorts for Greek food. Before I knew of all the Greek food offerings in Astoria, I made regular pilgrimages there to sample the food of my ancestors, at The Bohemian Hall and Beer Garden. Astoria was originally settled by Dutch and German immigrants, followed by a second wave of Czech, Irish and Italian immigrants in the 1890's. My Czech family also came to the United States in the late 1800's (though they pressed on to homestead in Central Nebraska) and the food traditions they brought informed the food I grew up with. I've made many a nostalgic trip to Astoria to drink a Pilsner Urquell and enjoy a grilled Kielbasy with rye bread, mustard and pickles or a plate of veprovy (roast pork) with gravy and dumplings. The Bohemian Hall boasts the oldest and largest beer garden in New York City. If you haven't made it there yet, you're missing out!
Since I already knew I'd find something delicious in Astoria, I eagerly drove at my friend's recommendation to Mediterranean Foods (23-18 31st Street). Not only did I find fantastic Greek olive oils, but also beautiful preserved fish, dozens of varieties of feta and all manner of Mediterranean staples such as tehina, grape leaves, dried dates and figs.
I walked out with arms loaded, but not so far that I couldn't stop just next door at Artopolis Bakery.
Artopolis offers a huge variety of specialty Greek breads, pies and pastries. I never leave with less than a dozen spanokopita and trikopita, as well as an entire box of baklava for myself, plus a few to share. Did I forget the olive oil flatbread? Oh, and the bittersweet chocolate baklava is so insanely delicious that it alone justifies the cost of a car rental. I promise.
Regional Egypt
Last year before my trip to Egypt, my friend insisted that we treat ourselves to an authentic Southern Egyptian meal prepared by his friend Chef Moustafa El Sayed at Mombar Egyptian Restaurant (25-22 Steinway St.) in Astoria. I was eager to get my first taste of authentic Egyptian food prepared in NY, to see how it compared with what I found in modern-day Cairo. The ornate entrance and lovingly decorated interior of Mombar are a good indication of the time and energy Chef Moustafa puts into his food. We ate a multi course feast including slowly cooked meats, beet and apple salad, roasted squab, mint tea and a delicious dessert with pomegranate and yogurt.
Chef Moustafa is quiet and thoughtful, making fine Egyptian food his mother would be proud of.
Last week we took our second trip to Little Egypt in Queens traveling just down the street to Kebab Cafe (25-12 Steinway St.) to sample the cuisine prepared by Chef Ali El-Sayed (brother of Moustafa). Chef Ali specializes in Northern Egyptian food, and serves during the lunch hour while his brother's restaurant is open only for dinner. To eat Ali's food is to be treated like royalty. From the mezze plate to the honey soaked basbousa (semolina cake), Ali serves up home style cooking with a dose of philosophy. His crispy duck and slow cooked lamb with chickpeas and just a hint of cinnamon made for a feast unlike anything i've ever called lunch. If you like a side of enlightening conversation with your food, it's Chef Ali you want to visit.
Brazil
While you are walking down Steinway Street after lunch at the Kebab Cafe, you'll notice a few Brazilian boutiques. The thought of Brazil might make you want to buy a bikini, but it also might make you hungry. That is, if you know about Churrascaria. Astoria, Queens is the main residential area for Brazilians in New York and a Churrascaria is basically a Brazilian steakhouse. Churrasco is the cooking method, which is loosely translated as barbeque. (In other South American countries, barbeque is referred to as Asado.) Churrascarias traditionally serve several types of meat (sausages, bacon wrapped turkey, filet, organ meats, etc), cooked rotisserie style and brought to the table and sliced by waiters until you signal that you've had enough.There are several Churrascarias in Queens and I've only recently been to one. Greenfield Churrascaria in Corona. I was lucky to to go with a group and not only was it fun, but the food was great. When i hear the words "salad bar" I am usually wary, but I was impressed with the freshness and quality of the vegetables available at this restaurant. A big salad as an appetizer made me feel a little more nourished and ready to sample lots of delicous fatty meat. I have to say that I don't usually like turkey but the churrasco bacon-wrapped turkey was just about the best morsel of meat I've ever tasted. But, as my friend helpfully pointed out, everything is better wrapped in bacon. Ah, touché
I haven't even mentioned the Szechuan hot pot in Flushing or Indian food in Jackson Heights. There is so much more to cuisine in Queens, and all the other boroughs of New York City. If you're lucky enough to live here, I encourage you to get out and find it!