the Green Army

Of Artichokes and Asparagus

Spring has arrived, and leading the surge are two of the most grand and noble vegetables. For me, the year's first artichokes always bring to mind the words of the poet Pablo Neruda:

The artichoke
of delicate heart
erect
in its battle-dress, builds
it's minimal cupola:
keeps
stark
in it's scallop of
scales...

The artichoke is a flower bud, part of the sunflower family, eaten before it has bloomed. Rich in iodine, vitamin C, high in fiber and minerals, this stately vegetable has a delicate, almost buttery flavor.
Like mussels and oysters, I love any food that takes some time and patience to consume. Artichokes are best enjoyed with friends. Each tasty bite at the base of a leaf is an appetizer for the succulent main event, the heart. Dissecting an artichoke, with hunger and anticipation, is part of the fun and surely makes them more delicious.
Artichokes are an occasional delicacy for me. Because most US artichokes are grown in California, I don't eat them as often as vegetables I can obtain locally.
Artichokes are at their peak availability in spring. Look for compact heads with vibrant green leaves and avoid withered stems. To prepare, cut off the stem to the base, remove any loose leaves and cut 1/3 off the top of the bulb to expose the flower. Large bulbs can be simply steamed for 30-40 minutes in water with a bit of lemon juice or vinegar added.

Asparagus, like the artichoke, is also harbinger of spring. This phallic looking vegetable member of the lily family dates back to the age of reptiles when ferns were the dominant plants. Asparagus, if allowed to mature in summer, produces tall fern-like foliage. It grows heartily in regions of the US with sandy soil and ample rainfall. The cultivation of asparagus dates back to the time of ancient Romans, and there are reports of this perennial crop producing shoots for over 100 years.
Cultivating asparagus is a labor of love. Roots are planted in a trench, and slowly covered as the shoots grow up from the crown, reaching for the sun. It can take up to three years for an asparagus plant to produce shoots for harvest. In spring, a percentage of shoots are harvested and those left behind mature into ferns. The leaves in turn absorb light and, through the process of photosynthesis, allow the plant to store sugars over the winter. Because asparagus stores so much food, it is an especially hardy and fast-growing plant.
The season for asparagus is relatively short, as little as four weeks, so enjoy it while you can. I think it's reputation as an aphrodisiac has as much to do with it's nutrients ( vitamin A, B, C, E, potassium and zinc) as it's here today, gone tomorrow quality.
Local asparagus is available right now. Look for smooth, firm stalks with closed compact tips. The tips are delicious, so make sure they are not too damp or dry. Asparagus bunches without packaging are ideal. They can be kept standing in a container with two inches of water for a few days in the fridge. I recommend eating asparagus as soon as it is picked. To remove tough ends, simply grasp the stalks and break them. The tough part will naturally separate. They can be peeled and used for longer cooking dishes like soup. I love asparagus roasted or grilled, with a dash of olive oil, fresh herbs, salt, pepper and finished with a bit of lemon.
Like Neruda, I imagine the artichoke with it's armor-like scales, and the asparagus with it's tall spears, as part of a hearty vegetable army, announcing spring and making way for a parade of delicate shelling peas, fava beans and strawberries.
Seize the season! Get your fill of these vegetables before they disappear. Summer and the queen of vegetables (the juicy tomato of course!) will be arriving before you know it.