Unfussy Food

A blog created to archive past editions of my online newsletter, as well as other food writing by me, Holly Mendenhall.

Friday, June 29, 2007

Cool as a Carnation

Cool Foods

"no pit,
no husk,
no leaves or thorns,
the tomato offers
its gift
of fiery color
and cool completeness."

- from Pablo Neruda's Ode to Tomatoes

I've been asked this week to write about cooling foods. Once I began to ponder this subject, I realized that we only need to look to nature and tradition to find the answers. During the hot summer months, nature provides just the right foods for us to eat.
Cucumbers
Did you know that cucumbers are 95% water? I was suprised at this myself. Cucumbers are an excellent cooling and hydrating food. I love a simple salad of cold sliced cucumbers, salt, lemon and olive oil with a pinch of pepper flakes. Not only are cucumbers delicious, but they are great for the skin. If you have never taken an afternoon respite with a cold drink and a couple of cold cucumber slices over your tired eyes, you don't know what you're missing!

Tomatoes, Lettuce and Other Summer Vegetables
Tomatoes, due to their high water content are very cooling. Tomatoes are heavenly fruit, and I could wax poetic about them all afternoon, but I know enough to leave that to Neruda. Though I grew up eating some great hybrid garden tomatoes, my first ever transcendental experience involving a tomato was in 2001. I was in culinary school, in August, and I tasted my first bright yellow heirloom tomato from the Union Square Farmer's Market. It changed my food life forever, and tomato sandwiches have been a staple lunch item every summer since. A slab of whole grain bread, crisp lettuce, generous dollop of mayo, thick slice of tomato sprinkled with coarse salt. It's practically food-gasmic.
Before I create another newsletter entirely about tomatoes, I can't forget to mention celery, broccoli, lettuces, radishes and melons. All cooling foods which are at their peak in the hot summer months.

Spicy Foods
Believe it or not, spicy foods can be very refreshing when it's hot. There is a reason that populations near and South of the equator eat so many chiles. Remember what I said about tradition? Consumption of spicy foods encourages perspiration which cools the body. (Sweating is good for you!)
Yogurt and Frozen Fruit
Many cuisines that include spicy foods also accompany their dishes with dairy based condiments to balance the heat. Think Indian food with minty raita or a glass of mango lassi. Yogurt and berries are one of my favorite summer snacks. While ice cream can be heavy and cloying in hot weather (I eat much more ice cream in winter!), yogurt and fruit are refreshing. Organic dairy yogurt provides essential minerals, fats and protein in addition to healthy bacteria which keeps your digestive system in check.
Instead of ice cream, try natural fruit-sweetened popsicles to cool off. However, don't rely too much on ice cubes or icy treats in the heat. If you opt for cool foods more often than ice cold foods you'll be better off. People who live in hot places know this, and they don't use ice. The metabolic heat generated by the body when consuming a lot of ice cold foods actually makes you warmer.

Eat light but get enough protein
Big meals can slow you down. Try to eat smaller meals more often. Grilled fish is a great option in summer. Fish is quick and simple to prepare, has plenty of healthy fats and protein, goes great with summer vegetables and is delicious. Wild Sockeye and Alaskan King Salmon are in season right now. I bought my salmon last week at Wild Edibles in NYC. To be sure you're making an eco-friendly choice, check out Blue Ocean Institute's Guide to Ocean Friendly Seafood. Don't be afraid to ask questions about the fish you buy. Some fishmongers have an attitude when customers start asking questions, but a
"shut up and buy it" approach is bad for business. Overfishing and pollution are incredible problems, and educated consumers and sellers can do the most to help. Stay tuned for more on this next week.

Finally... liquids!
Sweating is great, but be sure to stay hydrated. Listen to your body and drink plenty of pure water. To break the monotony, also try chilled mint tea, coconut water (great source of electrolytes), chilled seltzer with fruit juice, cool smoothies and yogurt drinks. Iced coffee or a cold beer may be refreshing, but they act as diuretics so be careful not to over do it.
If all else fails, surround yourself with flowers! I have read that summer-blooming flowers like roses, carnations and jasmine all have cooling effects. Rosewater is used in Indian food and sweets. You can also spritz yourself with a cool rosewater spray. Back home in the South, blooming jasmine covers shady porches in the summer but around these parts we might have to settle for a nice chilled glass of jasmine tea.
If anyone has any recipes for carnations, let me know. They are said to have a spicy, peppery, clove like flavor. Just stay away from those blue ones!

Whichever way you choose, stay cool and enjoy the weeks to come!

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